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Ultimaker S3: Easy-to-use 3D printing starts here.
Warping happens when the plastic cools and contracts. As the print cools down and shrinks slightly it starts to pull in on itself. Eventually the forces become so great that the print bends up from the platform. The best way to prevent this is with a heated build platform. By using a heated platform the plastic is kept just below the point where it goes solid, the so called glass transition temperature, and it therefore stays flat and connected to the platform.
Although the heat from the platform is often enough it is also recommended to add a thin layer of glue to the platform to promote adhesion.
Your printer will have come with a small stick of glue, spread a thin layer of glue onto the platform. Then, with a moistened rag or piece of paper, spread the glue out evenly onto the platform. As the bed heats the water will evaporate and leave a very nice thin and even layer of glue. It is also important to make sure your bed is levelled as perfectly as you can. The plastic must be squished onto the platform so that it bonds properly.
Besides preventing the print from coming loose or warping it also makes the bottom layer nice and shiny. You want the lines to be touching each other and all look identical to each other. Here's an example of what you're looking for:.
Notice how all the lines are uniform and touching. If the lines show signs of gaps your bed is levelled too low. If the lines are squished and messy it is likely your bed is too close.
A built in feature in cura called "brim" is another great way to help keep your print from warping. This feature puts what looks like the brim of a hat on the bottom layer of your print to help fight against the pulling forces of the cooling print.
Since this brim is only a single layer thick it is very easy to remove once the print is complete. The Ultimaker2 Go doesn't come with a heated bed so here you'll mostly have to rely on using the supplied blue painters tape and brim.
Make sure you really press it onto the platform so that it doesn't easily lift off. You can also clean the surface of the tape with some alcohol to get rid of the waxy surface and any finger oils.
This will make the print stick much harder. But since the bed on the Go is much smaller, warping is less of a problem. Besides needing a higher bed temperature remember to change the material setting on your machine to ABS you also need to be more careful with cooling.
If at all possible try to print without using the cooling fans at all. Ideally the printer should be enclosed to keep a constant temperature in the printing area. To promote bed adhesion you can make a slurry of ABS by dissolving a few bits of scrap ABS in a jar with Acetone Spread this slurry like a glue onto your build platform. A leaning print is usually caused by friction causing the print head to move a shorter distance than expected. Make sure that the short belts that connect the stepper motors to the axes do not rub up against the main body of the printer.
Similarly make sure that the pulleys on the stepper motors that the belts ride over are not touching the side of the printer. If they are you must move the pulley closer to the stepper motor.
It is difficult to reach the set screws that secure the pulley to the motor and you will therefore have to remove the white cover plates that the motors sit behind. These panels are held in place with a single screw on the side of the machine if you have a slightly older printer. On the newer ones there are two screws, one on the back and one on the side. Remove the screw and then lift the covers off by tilting the cover slightly towards the front and them lifting them out.
The only thing holding them in place is a small metal tab at the bottom of the cover that sticks down into the bottom of the printer.
On the Go there are no screws to remove. Instead the covers are held in place with small tabs that stick into the walls of the printer and into the bottom. These covers require a little bit of brute force to remove. Try pushing in the areas marked in the picture below and then pull the cover to the left.
You'll likely have to wiggle the cover around a bit to get it loose. As you might imagine getting the covers back on can be a bit of a challenge but with some patience and finesse they'll snap back into place. Now you will be able to reach the set screws of the pulleys. If you can't reach the screws easily simply move the head around so that they rotate into view. Undo the screw a turn or so and then push the pulley closer to the stepper motor.
The pulley should be as close as possible without touching the stepper motor. Don't forget to re-tighten the screws when you are done and make sure they are very tight so that the pulleys cannot slip. To confirm that this is the case you can use a black marker and put marks on the pulleys and a matching mark on the axes. After printing a test print and seeing a layer shift you can then inspect your marks and see which pulley s have moved. It is likely that the pulley s that need tightening are those connected to the short belts.
Tighten the set screws that hold the pulleys in place very tightly, probably a bit tighter than you expect. The small allen key that came with your printer will flex as you tighten the screws. Don't forget to check the pullies that are attached directly to the motor shaft, you can read about those in the section above.
Try to move the head around manually with the power turned off. The head should move around quite easily and there should be similar resistance in both the X and Y direction. If the head is moving stiffly it is probably a good idea to give the rods a drop of light machine oil each such as sewing machine oil.
Another cause for stiff movement can be misalignment of the rods so that they are not perfectly square. If you notice that the axes aren't square you can fix this by loosening the set screws on the two pulleys of one rod so that the sliding block on that side can move without affecting the opposing block.
Nudge the block the needed amount and then re-tighten the set screws. It could also be that the part you are printing detached from the platform during the print.
This should be fairly easy to see as the part will have shifted position from where it was originally. Make sure that your glass plate is held firmly in place. If the clips aren't gripping the plate firmly enough it might shift slightly during the print. If they are too loose you can use a pair of pliers to gently squeeze the clips together.
In rare cases there could be an issue with end stops triggering unexpectedly due to cross talk between wires. Re-routing the cables can help with this. But again, this is a very rare occurrence. Yet another, even more rare, cause can be overheating stepper drivers.
A design change of the traces on the mainboard can lead to more current than expected to get to the stepper drivers. This causes the stepper motor to overheat which in turn kicks in the overheating protection in the driver.
As the stepper overheats it shuts off for a fraction of a section to cool down and this is when the shift occurs. Pillowing show up as bumps in the top surface of a print and can either be open or closed. The most important thing here is to make sure that your cooling fans are going top speed when the printer is laying down the top layer. Without proper cooling the thin strands of plastic tend to curl up and stick up above the surface of the print and make it harder for subsequent layers to properly span over the gap.
With good cooling the strands gradually grow over the gaps until it closes fully. Besides cooling you also need to print a thick enough top surface so that the printer can properly close it. In general you should make sure that you are printing at least six top layers. Since the top and bottom thickness is set in mm you will have to do some basic math to make sure you're printing enough layers.
If you are printing with a 0. In general you will need more top layers the thinner your layer height is. With very thin layers the thin strands of plastic are more likely to break before fully bridging over the gaps in the infill and providing a nice base for the following layer.
You will therefore need to print more layers to make up for this. In other words very thin layers can be another cause of pillowing. This image shows two prints done with exactly the same settings, except for one, the bottom print did not have the cooling fans enabled.
The difference between infill percentages at 24 or lower and 25 and higher is how cura lays down each layer.
The infill is a crosshatch pattern made with diagonal intersecting lines. At lower densities both directions are laid down for each layer while at higher densities it is only laid down in one direction per layer. So, for layer X it will do lines from the lower left to the upper right. It's very common that the first couple of layers of a print is wider than you expected them to be. This is because you will generally want to make sure the first layer is nicely squished into the build platform so that it sticks properly.
By doing this the plastic gets squished out into a thicker line than normal and thus the bottom of the print will bulge out a bit like an elephant's foot. You can decrease this effect by levelling your bed so that the nozzle is slightly further away from the bed and lowering the bed temperature a bit. It's hard to get rid of this effect entirely without sacrificing bottom layer quality and bed adhesion.
It will be easier on small prints as they are less likely to warp and detach from the platform and you can therefore get away with not squishing the first layer as hard. However, if you are the one who created the part there is a trick you can use to help get rid of this problem. Simply put a small chamfer on the bottom of your print. How big to make this chamfer depends on your print settings and what kind of edge you're looking to create.
A good starting point is a 45 degree 0. You might be tempted to use a fillet instead of a chamfer for a rounder shape but these create a very severe overhang closest to the bed and rarely come out quite the way you expect. Feel free to experiment though. A fairly common issue on the Ultimaker Original in particular especially the kit versions is that people try to print things with circles and the circles don't come out perfectly circular.
At the same time infill lines are not touching the outside perimeter properly. You may also see that infill lines are grouped in pairs where two lines are touching followed by a gap and then another two lines touching. Both of these problems stem from the same issue and that is backlash caused by slack belts. Mainly it is the so called "short belts", which are the belts that are connected to the stepper motors, not being tight enough.
Thankfully this is an easy fix. This image is a nice example of lines grouped in pairs. Notice that there are actually two lines very close together followed by a gap and then another two lines close together. To make sure the belts are tightened properly you need to loosen the four screws that hold the stepper motor in place.
Don't remove the screws fully, just loosen them so that you can move the stepper motor up and down. Now press down firmly on the top of the motor so that the belt is nice and tight.
While keeping pressure on the motor re-tighten the screws to lock the motor in place. Do this for both motors. It's also a good idea to make sure that the rods are nicely lubricated. A single drop of light oil, such as sewing machine oil, on each rod is enough. An additional step you might want to take while you're at it is to ensure that the set screws of the pulley on the motor is nice and tight, tighter than you might think should be enough.
The primary countermeasure for stringing is something called retraction. When you have retraction enabled the printer will "suck" the filament back a short distance before moving the print head over an open space.
By sucking the filament in a bit it helps prevent plastic from dripping from the nozzle during the travel move. So what you should do first is to make sure that retraction is actually enabled in cura. Make sure this box is checked. You can check if retractions will happen without printing by looking at the layer view in cura after slicing your object.
You switch to layer view with the big button in the upper right corner of the window. The retractions are indicated by small blue lines that go from the print and straight up.
It can sometimes be tricky to see these lines without zooming in and rotating the view around. As you can see it can be hard to spot these small lines unless you zoom in for a closer look. The other blue line indicates the travel move that the retraction is preparing for. Another thing you can do to lessen the effect of stringing is to increase the travel speed. By increasing the travel speed you give the head less time to ooze plastic but you also help snap off any strands that form instead of dragging them along.
This image shows clearly how lowering the temperature has a very positive effect on the amount of stringing. As always when lowering temperature you must also make sure that you are printing slowly enough to prevent under extrusion. Note that the temperatures shown in this image is for PLA, for other materials you may not be able to go this low. Or conversely, you may be able to go even lower. On the Ultimaker2 the speed and length of the retraction is set on the printer.
The default values work well but feel free to play around. Increasing the retraction length for example can make up for sloppiness in the connection of the bowden tube to the print head. Finally it should be noted that some filaments are simply prone to stringing and no matter what you do it might be all but impossible to completely eliminate them. Even different colours from the same manufacturer can differ in how much they string. Ringing is what we call the small waves or shadows that usually appear around sharp corners on a print.
It's often very apparent if you have text on your print as you will see what looks like shadows of the text. This happens when the print head makes a sudden direction change and the inertia of the head causes vibrations that show up in the print. To combat this there's a couple of things you can do.
Simply slowing down your print speed will help lessen the effect. Decreasing the acceleration of the printer will make a big impact on the reduction of ringing without affecting print speed too heavily. Try or and see how that affects your print. There's also another defect that can look like ringing while it actually isn't.
Something that can happen is that infill shows through to the outside layer. This can look similar to ringing. To get rid of this the solution is to print thicker outer walls to hide the infill. Try printing at least two outer shells which, with a standard nozzle, will equate to 0. By default cura will print the infill before the walls, this makes it more likely that the infill will show through to the outer wall.
The reason for printing in this order is because it helps with overhangs. Excessive temperature can also cause strange vertical lines in a print. Try lowering the temperature slightly and see if that helps. Yet another thing to try is to rotate your part 45 degrees on the print bed. Some users have reported that this has gotten rid of vertical lines on the print.
The reason overhangs come out uglier than a straight wall is simply because new layers are not properly supported by the preceding layer. Rather than fully resting and being anchored in place by the previous layer the new layers are partially printed into mid air and tend to sag down slightly or curl up.
Sometimes these issues accumulate making each layer worse than the last. Curling around corners when using thin layers seems to be especially problematic. Dealing with overhangs is tricky, there are many variables that will affect how well or badly they will be printed. Temperature, print speed, amount of overhang, layer height, material, and cooling all play a part in how an overhang will print.
Like so many other things cooling plays one of the biggest roles in how well an overhang will print. If the object you're trying to print is small there's a chance that, due to the way the nozzle is positioned, the right fan never gets a chance to properly cool the print. A prime example of this is the right ear of the Ultimaker robot. A way around this is to print more than one object at the same time. By doing this the print head will move between the two objects and allow the layer of one object cool down while the same layer is being printed on the other copy.
Motion controllers receive instructions from the mother board about the movement they must make, while they are the ones who perform the actual movements. You can find the PSU mounted on the frame. Or, it can also be available separately along with another controller box.
However, mounted one provides compact look and occupies less space. PSU strength would decide what temperature your 3D printer is capable of working with. For advanced materials, one must choose the one with higher temperature range allowance.
Mostly, anyone who has worked with 3D printer would know what a print bed is. This is the component where the models are created. The filaments are deposited on the print bed, one layer at a time for building the entire object. One of the major 3D printer parts that does decide the quality and surface finish of the printed object.
Different 3D Printers boasts different kinds of print bed. You can find heated as well as non-heated print beds. A non heated print bed may be enough for PLA, however, for advanced filaments, heated beds are recommended.
These helps in enhancing adhesion and stability for first layer of the print. Also, the print beds are designed using different materials. For example, aluminium and glass print beds. Both have its own benefits and limitations. Aluminium print beds heat up faster and glass print beds, being flatter, provides better finish and are easy to maintain as well. Some 3D printers offer automatic calibration of print beds.
However, users need to level the bed manually in some. The extruder, also known as print head extrudes the filament and deposit it on the print bed. The extruder can be categorized in two sections. One is called the cold end while the other is known as the hot end.
The job of the cold end is to lock the filament while pushing it gradually downwards to the hot end. The hot end that has a nozzle attached to it at the end, maintains a high temperature greater than the melting point of the filament. The hot end melts the filament which is further deposited on the print bed.
Some 3D printers are equipped with dual extruders as well. With a dual extruder, one can print simultaneously with two different filaments. Dual extruders have two kinds of setup. Either both the nozzles are included in one print head or connected with two different print heads. There are two most common feeder system used in 3D printers: Bowden feeder system and Direct feeder system. In a Bowden setup, there are different locations for cold and hot ends.
With faster lead times than outsourcing and a wide range of engineering materials, FFF 3D printing is used widely in manufacturing industries. And they are used to flexibly create end-use parts, such as bespoke quality gauges or small batch first runs, to speed up time to market of a product. Low-cost materials and short print times make FFF 3D printing ideal for the iterative design process. Affordable and easy-to-use FFF hardware enables a variety of education applications — from engaging younger students with STEAM basics to providing production labs for college and university students to work on engineering projects and develop skills for the modern workplace.
Learn more about the range of 3D printing applications and how experienced AM engineers identify them in this episode of the Talking Additive podcast. Plastic polymers are the most used materials for FFF technology, of which there are many for countless uses. Composites that combine a polymer with fibers of carbon, metal, glass, or other materials are also widely used for various structural benefits, although these cannot be printed reliably on all FFF 3D printers.
Technically it is also possible to print food and biological pastes using 3D printing technology, although this is typically reserved for experimental or research applications. This is needed when the orientation or shape of a part makes it impossible to print from bottom to top — for example, a part with a large overhang. Support materials are designed to be easy to remove. Material for FFF 3D printers is typically sold as spools of filament, each containing from g to 1 kg of material.
For some, you may be limited to using two or three materials. Other printers may claim to work with any material, but soon develop technical issues from wearing caused by printing abrasive composite materials. Market-leading technical support via email, phone, or from our global community is available to you in your language and timezone. Online resources, extensive manuals, material technical and safety data sheets in multiple languages , a detailed knowledge base, and much more.
Discover just how easy the Ultimaker S3 is to use with a full hardware overview and design-to-print workflow demonstration. You will also learn:. Ultimaker Ultimaker S3: Easy-to-use 3D printing starts here.
Ultimaker S3 Powerful, professional 3D printing. Get pricing. Composite-ready dual extrusion. Award-winning touchscreen interface. Compatible with over materials. The physical space inside the Ultimaker S3 that can be used for single or dual extrusion 3D printing.
This is the process of depositing layers of filament, one on top of the other, to build up shapes and models. It is a form of additive manufacturing technology and the process used by all Ultimaker 3D printers. Fused filament fabrication FFF. The filament diameter that achieves optimal results on Ultimaker 3D printers.
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